Boucheron Hypnotic has crafted a new collection inspired by their creations for the jewel-loving Maharajah of Patiala. Boucheron Hypnotic creative director Claire Choisne is not one for fairy tales, but she was enthralled by a story that goes back almost a century. The collection pays homage to its Indian link by adapting classical designs for a new era.
The collection pays homage to its Indian link by The 14 piece collection has a mix-and-match ability and its Indian link – from a brooch inspired by majestic turban ornaments and a lace-like diamond collar with a lotus motif, to bracelets invoking the ancient symbol of protection – expresses both power and grace.
“I first heard about this story when I joined Boucheron Hypnotic some ten years ago. We have no clue of where those pieces are today. It’s a mystery we are quite obsessed with.”
say Choisne about the extraordinary commission that has vanished from the public eye.
All the hallmarks of the Maharajah’s famously extravagant style – the exuberant use of large stones, multi-wear, and gender-fluid designs – are intact in the new collection, with the passage of time lending Choisne a welcome opening for contemporary interpretation.
“We have all the sketches from the royal order, even pictures of the pieces, but they were in black and white,”
As a result, this collection exalts the beauty of white: Diamonds, rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, platinum, and white gold present a refined backdrop for hypnotic emeralds.
“I wanted to bring a sense of purity,”
Left: The New Sarpech brooch can also be worn as a hair jewel. Right: Choisne dreamed up a mother of pearl bobbin to stack diamond and pearl bracelets inspired by the ancient indian protection symbol, the ‘Churiyan’.
When the inspiration is the source of legends, it is easy to get bogged down by the idea of matching up, but Choisne played it differently.
“When I think about how Boucheron made those pieces in such a short time, honestly I wouldn’t be able to do that now. I tried to forget the numbers, forget the size of the stones and only focus on the aesthetical parts.”